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The Salt Remover

(water soluble - insoluble)

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Salt Remover water soluble - insoluble and Clorides Info
Before painting (epoxy) steel, metal, fiberglass, or concrete, learn how soluble salts cause coating failure
 

 

 

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The following quotes were taken from an article in Materials Performance magazine - Dec. 2003, as well as email and telephone communications with personnel of the company that manufactures the Salt Remover we sell and who also write the MP article.


"Not all 'water-soluble' salts may be removed by water washing because various salts adsorb on the steel surface..... extra surface preparation - in addition to traditional cleaning - is necessary to ensure good coating performance."


"...Water alone may remove only a portion of the salt ions from the surface. Water may not solubilze and wash all the 'water soluble' salts from the surface in the time allotted for washing. Remaining salts can effectively catalyze future corrosive reactions."


"...The chloride attached to the iron now is considered a surface-reacted salt (SRS). though iron chloride by itself is water soluble when it becomes an SRS it is very difficult for water solubilization to occur because of the electrochemical forces attaching them to the steel surface. Note that boiling a steel coupon... contaminated with SRS and using dionized water for 1 hour removes only 90-95% of the salts. In the field, tepid potable water washed onto the metal surface may remove only a minor amount or none at all."


"Conventional methods of surface preparation such as abrasive blast cleaning, power or hand tool cleaning, and water washing do not impart sufficient energy to break the salt absorption force bond."


"This extra effort is essential to ensure that the level of soluble salt contamination is low enough to mitigate premature coating failure caused by relatively low levels of these catalyzed salts."


"Salts, such as chlorides, sulfates and nitrates, are the same whether on steel or concrete or fiberglass. Our salt remover will solubilize and remove them from any surface."


"Salts are a great problem on concrete and are almost always there. Example, chlorides are present in the tap water used in the mixture and often the aggregate has some chloride present from it's source, typically a riverbed of some kind. The chlorides are spread throughout the concrete as it is mixed, then as it dries/cures the moisture travels to the top, carrying chlorides with it, the H2O evaporates and leaves the chlorides behind right on the very surface you want to coat. It could be chlorides, sulfates or nitrates or any combination depending on what is present. Almost always, the top 1/8 to 1/4 inch of concrete is much higher in chlorides than the concrete 2 inches deep."


"The salts in concrete can be semi-bond (just like they are on steel surfaces) because they can react with some of the iron minerals, contaminants, etc. in the concrete. Also note that while some salts can quickly be removed with water and brush, other salts, albeit water soluble, do not dissolve as readily as others."


"Besides salts within the concrete itself, concrete surfaces are often acid etched. The acids can leave behind their constituent salt ions within the etched surface. To bottom line is that there could well be areas of high salt content on your concrete surface that will adversely affect your coating surface bond."


"If you do acid etch, flush the acid well with water, then neutralize any remaining acid with a 'base' detergent (a handful of Tide ® in a bucket of water). Rinse well. Now, if you etched or not, wash down with our salt remover and a stiff brush, then a final water rinse."


"These salts can often interfere with adhesion of a coating. Salts can also be introduced with admixtures and curing agents or release agents. Consequently it is not unusual to have salt contamination of concrete surfaces. It is very hard to identify through testing as results can vary from area to area since there are wide variations in the concrete itself, how it is troweled and from load to load. Knowing salts are present it is
easiest and very economical to simply wet the surface to be coated with salt remover, then rinse with a pressure washer or garden hose. A pressure washer is preferred."


"Regarding fiberglass, I know of no actual study regarding salts and coating failure, but typically I see fiberglass boats recoated and a year or so later delamination begins of either small or large flakes or both. In most cases the shop which applied the coating was sure they did a thorough cleaning and abrading of the surface, yet disbondment occurred anyway. It is my belief that when they cleaned, typically with detergents or degreasers, they did not get the salts removed, nor did abrading the surface remove them. Any salts remaining can readily suck moisture through the paint film and cause disbondment. If the surface were steel it would corrode at the same time, but since fiberglass does not corrode it simply disbonds the paint film. The same would be true of wood or any other such surface. The salts are hydroscopic, meaning they draw moisture, and they draw that moisture right through the paint film and cause it to disbond."


"Certainly fiberglass is porous (the reason for applying an epoxy barrier coating) and all kinds of mineral salts, not just 'sea salt' can be found in both salt and fresh water and presumably at and below the surface of a fiberglass hull. I have no fiberglass boat 'studies' but the salt wash formulating company reports that pool painting contractors have virtually eliminated pool coating blistering (on fiberglass pools) by using a salt remover washdown as the final step in pool surface preparation prior to painting."

 


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This current page is all about:

Salt Remover

Salt Remover water soluble - insoluble and Clorides Info
Before painting (epoxy) steel, metal, fiberglass, or concrete, learn how soluble salts cause coating failure

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Today's new salt remover washes address an invisible aspect and cause of coating problems and failures that experts are only starting to understand. It is a real issue, but as to how much of a problem it could be for your boat hull, garage, basement floor, pool, etc. recoating project is hard or impossible to say. Granted it does add to the cost, but it is added insurance against a possible coating problem. On the other hand, people have coated these surfaces more or less successfully for many years without the knowledge of this 'soluble salt' issue.

It's your call!

MORE INFO - 3RD PARTY PDF FORMATED ARTICLE ON 'SALTS' - CLICK HERE


MORE INFO - 3RD PARTY PDF FORMATED ARTICLE ON 'SALTS' - CLICK HERE




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Inside Our non-marine, commercial, DIY Catalog:

Section A EPOXY PAINTS

corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; crack coat™; liqua tile 1172 potable water; water prime

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water bond (water based); industrial floor epoxy; bio vee seal; walnut shell; rough coat grit filled epoxy floor paint; epoxy clear top resi


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wet/dry 700; splash zone A-788, epoxy cream; splash zone a-788

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Aluthane moisture cured urethane; Acrylic Poly UV Plus and other 2 part polys ; Capt. Tolley's creeping crack sealer; india spar varnish;

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fumed silica; fiber fill; micro balloons/micro-spheres; graphite;  wood flour; EZ thick, rock flour;


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water activated pipe wrap; TA 661 solvent-free epoxy brush cleaner; fiberglass tape/cloth


Section H SURFACE PREPARATION PRODUCTS


Section I MISC. ACCESSORIES

short nap epoxy rollers; epoxy/stone deck resurfacing roller; 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors


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Salt Remover water soluble - insoluble and Clorides Info
Before painting (epoxy) steel, metal, fiberglass, or concrete, learn how soluble salts cause coating failure
 

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