Progressive Epoxy Polymers Inc., Floor Coatings  EpoxyPolyurethane, Pittsfield, NH






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Seabrook Texas, about 2007



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Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc.

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Paul Oman, MS, MBA - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. (floor epoxies, marine epoxies, underwater epoxies, repair epoxies)

Member: NACE (National Assoc. of Corrosion Engineers), SSPC (Soc. of Protective Coatings)

"Professionals helping Professionals" since 1994

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We are the only technology based coating/epoxy/resin company that actively encourages your phone calls, not just during our East Coast work hours but also after/before hours, evening, weekends and even holidays. We're available when you are. We form a personal relationship with our customers and freely share technical information, how to-advice, product information and tips-and-tricks. Speak with a non-salesman technical professional with over 25 years of experience in the resin/coating/epoxy industry (no newbie staffer on the phone lines!). Floors, tables, boats, leaks, rot repair. We handle it all! We are an 'always available,' one-on-one, technical/scientific, coating company (watch our video). We are NOT one of those fluffy/slick mass sales firms the dominate the internet selling cheap third party (made in China???), low end epoxies and coatings with no real knowledge of what they are selling and quotas to sell to as many people as possible. 603-435-7199 (east coast time).







Why Water Gard 300 epoxy is the BEST in its class:

1. Performance boosted epoxy ADDUCT

2)  can be applied underwater

3) cycloaliphatic formulation

4) not too thick, not too thin, 1 coat epoxy paint

5) special high end curing agents allow shipping by air

6) strong user support / feedback

7) 24/7 support



air shippable xx   cycloaliphatic system xx
no nonyl phenol     epoxy adduct system  
multi curing agents     bulk pricing  
solvent free xx   no Calif. sales  
2 part epoxy xx   2 part poly  
apply underwater xx   bubble breakers  
favorite(s) product list xx   data sheets xx
PACKING - jugs/bottles     PACKING - cans xx
find in non marine cat xx   find in marine catalog xx
PRICES/ind/commercial xx   PRICES/marine section xx
BUY online

simple store

xx   BUY online

primary store

home page xx   contact page xx



What Makes Water Gard 300 (tm) A Superior Epoxy Coating For Your Application?

Water Gard 300 is not a simple epoxy paint but rather an epoxy adduct. In general terms epoxy adducts have some of the Part A resin added to the Part B curing agent during manufacture. The result is improvement in most of the coating's physical properties (which is way you are using an epoxy in the first place). This includes reduced yellowing, better curing and a host of other property improvements. A better epoxy for better results!

Learn more about epoxy adducts at the Vanguard Concrete Coating web site.



Under a different original label Water Gard 300 was approved for potable water and approved with only a handful of other coatings for nuclear reactor use. Water Gard 300 (tm) is one of the highest performance, best quality epoxies in the Marketplace.



From David Dawson's 2010 marine blog  -

coating his bilge with Water Gard 300 epoxy paint:


sailboat bilge  with epoxy paint


bilge without epoxy paint

Much, though not all, of the paint flaked off as we cleaned and degreased the bilge. Our goal is to have a bilge that is clean, as dry as possible, with the fiberglass protected from the effects of water.

After debating the merits of various paints and coatings, we decided on a two-part epoxy paint that bonds a hard, shiny, white shell onto the fiberglass.

We ordered a supply of Water Gard 300™, an "Immersion Grade Cycloaliphatic Epoxy," from Progressive Epoxy Polymers — two gallons of the Part A white pigmented base, plus 1 gallon of the Part B catalyst. Paul Oman has a very helpful website and communicated well via email while we were researching coatings. The Water Gard 300 is low in VOCs and was not unpleasant to work with — even in the cramped, unventilated confines behind the engine — but the Xylol we added to thin the Water Gard, even in the small amounts we used, was very irritating and required opening hatches to vent while working.
This product is a Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. best selling, favorite product. Visit our FAVORITES - 7 EPOXIES THAT WILL FIX ANYTHING  web page at: View other popular one-of-a-kind products.

I began with the easiest part of the bilge — the salon portion — accessible, shallow. After the first day, I phoned home, complaining that it was the messiest, most difficult project I'd ever undertaken, and that I would never do it again. The stuff soaked through my clothes, coated my skin, every single tool, and all my carefully-taped drop cloths, with sticky white goo.

After removing and bagging all of the drop cloths, I changed clothes and carefully laid them out to dry. That night, I spent a sleepless hour mentally refining my technique and fretting about putting on the second coat.

Next day, I donned my paint outfit, which had "cured" overnight. I felt like the Tin Man. Things went much better — so much so that I finished the salon bilge, put down a first coat in the head bilge and the forepeak chain locker, and had enough energy left over to tackle some other smaller projects on the winter punch list.

This was mostly a one-person project except for the aft bilge. There, one person (me) wedged herself next to the engine with brush or roller in hand, while a second person (partner) mixed Part A and Part B and handed it in when needed.

We found that painting the upper part of the forepeak was also easier with two people, though it could be done alone, albeit less conveniently.

The quantity of Water Gard we ordered was just enough for two coats everywhere except the upper part of the forepeak. We used extra material on the aft bilge in an effort to make sure the less accessible surfaces were thoroughly coated. If not for this, we probably would have been able to get a second coat into the upper half of the forepeak.
Epoxy paint tools and techniques

The temperature inside the boat ranged from about 58° F to 68° F. I discovered that batches of 18 ounces total material were just about right for applying before it began to kick.

Because the ratio of Part A to Part B is two to one, I bought an 8-ounce measuring cup and a 4-ounce measuring cup, plus two spatulas, one wide and one narrow. I thought it would be important to have distinct measuring and scraping tools for Part A and Part B so they would never become mixed by mistake.

I used a tall 24-ounce plastic container to mix the components together. For each batch, I measured out 12 ounces of Part A (one and a half of the larger measuring cups) and scraped it into the mixing container. Then I measured out 6 ounces of Part B (one and a half of the smaller measuring cups) and scraped it into the mixing container. Finally I added 1 ounce of Xylol, to thin it just a bit. I used a VSR electric drill with a mixing bit to blend the ingredients. — — — Be careful, the mixture is very thick and the drill must be driven at a very slow speed, or a huge mess can result! I speak from experience, alas.

After each session was done, I discarded the mixing container; but I cleaned up the mixing cups and spatulas with Xylol.

Just as a certain collection of brushes was important to the success of the bilge cleaning chore, the right tools are essential to the success of painting with two-part epoxy.

First, I taped edges, hardware, and wiring with blue painter's tape. The engine, the mast in the salon and the bitts in the forepeak were completely covered and taped off with a drop cloth and plastic garbage bags.

I used the cheap, hairy, tan brushes sold at paint stores to "cut in" — if you can call the pushing-around of thickened goo "cutting in" — around edges, hoses, hardware, into corners, and so on, where rollers or paint pads would not be useful. The 4-inch and 2.5-inch widths were handy. Don't waste money on better brushes; you will throw them away after each painting session. In the aft bilge, I used duct tape to secure the brush onto a wooden handle, and was able to paint the narrow aft wall and all the inside-turning edges of the bilge; it was sloppy but effective.

Most broad expanses of the bilge were painted using a paint pad. Following advice gleaned on the Internet, I bought a red Shur-Line™ applicator and a supply of 9-inch paint pads. Supposedly, this brand stands up to the rigors of the thick epoxy paint. It did, though the paint pad tended to pop out of the applicator when I held it by the handle — I ended up getting a good grip on pad and applicator together, ignoring the handle, and it worked just fine. I'd pour a ribbon of epoxy paint onto the paint pad and then wipe it onto the bilge surface, then dragged it across and down several times to spread the paint. The material went on smoothly and evenly this way. Avoid going back and forth too many times, especially after you've moved on to another section, because you will create drag marks as the stuff begins to kick.

Finally, I used a roller, designated for use with epoxy, on a telescoping handle in the deep aft bilge. Here, I poured a ribbon of material right on the vertical bilge sides, then used the roller to push it around as evenly as possible. I wasn't able to see well the side nearest where I was wedged behind the engine, but on inspection later (with mirrors and crouching in the bilge forward of the engine), I found I hadn't done such a bad job covering everything.

In the end, I've become a fan of two-part epoxy paint. I would definitely use it again.


Vendor Comments (12/10):

Water Gard 300 epoxy paint is our most common epoxy for barrier coat hull protection on fiberglass boat hulls (Our Corro Coat fc 2100A epoxy paint which is reinforced with Kevlar (tm) micro fibers and our flexible CM 15 epoxy paint are also popular barrier coat epoxies. The Water Gard and the fc 2100 can actually be applied underwater). CLICK HERE to visit the epoxy paint section of our online marine catalog. We created this page to illustrate the use of these epoxies inside the bilge areas of boats instead of just as a barrier coat.

Water Gard and fc2100A can be purchased at our second, really simple web site -

This product is a Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. best selling, favorite product. Visit our FAVORITES - 7 EPOXIES THAT WILL FIX ANYTHING  web page at: View other popular one-of-a-kind products.






water gard 300 epoxy paint

water gard 300 marine epoxy paint

Tonga Based Dive Boat Pontoons

Refurbished with white

Water Gard 300(tm) Epoxy Paint





bilge paint

bilge paint

ABOVE - Bilge #1 before Water Gard 300 Epoxy Paint

ABOVE - Bilge #1 after Water Gard 300 Epoxy Paint

bilge paint

bilge paint

ABOVE - Bilge #2 before Water Gard 300 Epoxy Paint

ABOVE - Bilge #2 after Water Gard 300 Epoxy Paint



"Thanks for sending out more water guard. It's obviously a great product.

A little challenging to get it to flow out but its the nicest bilge coating we have ever used.

Attached are some photos of my commander (1968 35 ft Chris Craft Commander) project."

Jeremy -- Custom Marine 9/18




Barrier Coat 101 - IN A NUTSHELL

(visit our barrier coat page)


STEP 1)  Prep the hull removing most or all of the existing paints and coatings.

STEP 2) Fix any blisters as per using Low V epoxy and Wet Dry 700 kevlar (tm) underwater epoxy (the Wet Dry 700 is one of our epoxies used to save the sunken yacht Banshee it can be applied underwater).

STEP 3) Optionally prime / seal the hull with ESP 155 epoxy primer (not for sale in S. California). Generally used to help sealing and bonding on abrasive blasted (i.e. 'damaged') hulls, sun weathered hulls, or old fiberglass. About 75% of owners prime/seal with ESP 155.

STEP 4) Using short nap rollers apply a coat of epoxy barrier paint (yielding about 8 - 12  mils of thickness - most sources recommend 10-12 mils). Use CM 15 epoxy on hulls that have a bit of flex or if applying in hot weather (CM 15 has a long pot life and more than ordinary epoxy flex. - coverage 1 gal covers about 150 sf). Most owners use our Water Gard 300 epoxy paint sold in light blue or white - 3 gal unit covers about 400 sf. Also used as a bilge coating). Owner also use our gray, Kevlar (tm) reinforced, epoxy paint called Corro Coat fc 2100A. A 1.5 gal unit covers about 150 sf. It is also one of the other epoxies (applied with fiberglass cloth underwater) to save the sunken yacht Banshee. The Water Gard 300 and the Corro Coat fc 2100A also make a good bilge coating.

STEP 5) 'Scratch up' the surface (recommended) and apply your bottom paint as per manufacturer's direction. Or consider the 'copper epoxy' option (fine copper powder mix into a thin epoxy - our Low V epoxy - and applied to the hull.


MASSIVE BOAT - EPOXY - REPAIR - BUILDING  BOAT LINK SITES (worth your time to investigate)

BASIC NO BLUSH marine epoxy - the best and cheapest FORMULATED non blushing marine epoxy





The Marine Epoxy Everything Guide

Everything from user reviews, repair examples,

pricing issues and vendor evaluation tips


Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy Product Page

Marine Epoxy Catalog page (multiple epoxies)

Basic No Blush Marine Epoxy User Reviews / Feedback

How To Evaluating Marine Epoxy brands and Vendors

Marine Epoxy prices - what it really costs!

Marine Epoxy amine blush - what is epoxy Blush?

Boat repair examples using Marine Epoxy

Dinghy Marine Epoxy boat repair case study

Progressive Epoxy Polymer's marine web site

Buy two part Marine Epoxy now

Massive site of Internet boat links




Inside Our Marine Catalog:


basic no blush epoxy, premium no blush epoxy, esp 155 epoxy,  low v epoxy


fumed silica; microsphere/balloons; poly fibers; graphite, wood flour; EZ thick; rock flour


wet/dry 700; splash zone; epoxy cream; splash zone a-788

Section Four TWO PART EPOXY PAINTS (barrier coats)

corro coat FC 2100; water gard 300; CM 15; liqua tile 11 72 potable water; rough coat; water prime

Section Five URETHANES AND NON-EPOXY COATINGS Aluthane (aluminum coating); LPU Marine; india spar varnish; acrylic poly uv plus, polyester poly


walnut shell,; s15


pipe wrap; fiberglass tape (cloth); Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure


short nap rollers; TA 661 (solvent free epoxy clean-up); 1 inch foam brushes; 2 inch bristle brushes; tongue depressors

Click here - Dozens of boat repair info links across the internet. - (everything is here!)


MPRICES - 2 part marine epoxy pricing issues - CLICK HERE -

MEPOXIES - comparing 2 part clear marine epoxies - CLICK HERE - (you are here already!)

EVAL4U - how to evaluate your marine/non marine epoxy vendor - CLICK HERE -

Legal Stuff / Returns

NOTICE: Legal notices, Terms of Service, warranty information, disclaimers, health warnings, etc. are required reading before using web site, ordering and/or using Products. Any such use and/or ordering, online or by telephone, shall constitute acceptance and knowledge of all such terms. CLICK HERE  to access these terms. Please note: Whenever you purchase from this web site, and with each new purchase, you are granting us full and complete permission to add you to our email newsletter list at our option.

RETURNS: call or email for authorization to return. Returns are subject to a 25% restock fee. Customer pays return shipping and must comply with federal DOT shipping requirement/labeling for hazmat epoxies under penalty of fines and legal action.

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